{"id":378,"date":"2025-10-06T14:46:58","date_gmt":"2025-10-06T05:46:58","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/mktaxi-japan.com\/kyoto\/?post_type=article&p=378"},"modified":"2026-01-29T10:40:36","modified_gmt":"2026-01-29T01:40:36","slug":"the-history-of-wafuku-and-kimono-types-and-uses-to-know","status":"publish","type":"article","link":"https:\/\/mktaxi-japan.com\/kyoto\/articles\/the-history-of-wafuku-and-kimono-types-and-uses-to-know\/","title":{"rendered":"The History of Wafuku and Kimono: Types and Uses"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Wafuku, known as clothing native to Japan, is still often worn today on ceremonial occasions such as coming-of-age ceremonies, weddings, funerals, and memorial services. In sightseeing, renting kimono to wear is also familiar as \u201ccontent\u201d that can make a trip more enjoyable.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Here we will briefly explain the various kinds of such wafuku and kimono, and on what kinds of occasions each is worn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The History of Wafuku and Kimono<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Clothing Before the Birth of Wafuku<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The \u201cKantoi\u201d Recorded in the Wei Zhi\u2019<\/a>s \u201cAccount of the Wa People\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wafuku\u2014also called \u201ckimono\u201d or \u201cgofuku\u201d\u2014is clothing native to Japan. Whereas Western clothing fits closely to the body and is finished three-dimensionally through curved cutting, wafuku is cut in straight lines and worn by fixing the cloth in place with an obi<\/em> (sash).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Although wafuku is known as Japan\u2019s traditional clothing, the Chinese historical work Wei Zhi, which conveys information about Japan in the Yayoi period, records that men wrapped a single piece of cloth around the body, while women wore kant<\/em>oi<\/em> (a \u201cthrough-the-head\u201d garment). The form of wafuku seen today had not yet been born.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The men\u2019s clothing described in the Wei Zhi<\/em> is thought to have been like the sari seen today in South Asia, and the women\u2019s clothing like the poncho seen in South America. Globally, such garments are regarded as \u201cthe origin of clothing.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Among these, the kantoi<\/em>\u2014like a poncho\u2014can readily be modified to further increase warmth by sewing on sleeves and fixing the cloth of the torso with a belt. By arranging the opening of the kantoi<\/em> to be at the front and back, and securing the cloth with a belt, the garment can be made to resemble wafuku quite closely; such ingenuity is thought to have led to the birth of wafuku.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Kofun Period, When the Origins of Wafuku Were Born<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

After the Yayoi period, haniwa from the Kofun period suggest that people wore garments resembling the kosode<\/strong>\u2014a type of present-day wafuku with small sleeve openings\u2014and thus we can see that by this time clothing that formed the origin of wafuku had come into being.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the periods that followed, under the influence of cultural inflows from China, the upper classes at times wore Tang-style clothing; however, among the common people there arose\u2014and thereafter took root\u2014a culture in which the upper garment was a front-opening garment and the lower garment was something like hakama<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A diverse array of wafuku arose according to class and use<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In the Heian period, the junihitoe became women\u2019s formal dress<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

When trade with Tang China ceased in the Heian period, \u201cnational-style culture\u201d blossomed in Japan. Members of the upper classes, whose daily lives involved little vigorous movement, came to wear loose-fitting wafuku. They wore hakama<\/em> on the lower body and layered multiple garments on the upper body; men\u2019s formal court dress became the sokutai<\/em>, and women\u2019s became the junihitoe<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In the same period, the kosode<\/em> was worn as underwear in aristocratic dress, but multiple sources show that among the commoner class it became standard to wear a kosode<\/em> on the upper body with hakama<\/em> on the lower body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Also around this time, the yukatabira<\/em>\u2014a garment nobles wore when entering steam baths\u2014came into being, and it is thought that this later developed into the modern yukata<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Kosode, which Became the Base of the Kimono<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

By the late Heian period, among the commoner class there began to appear a way of wearing in which hakama<\/em> were not put on and only the kosode<\/em> was worn in a flowing (kinagashi<\/em>) style, and the kosode<\/em> came to become the base of the kimono.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As time went on and the warrior class gained power, the way of dressing of these people\u2014who were not originally of high rank\u2014came to exert a major influence on kimono culture. They did not put on luxurious upper garments like the aristocracy; instead, an appearance of kosode<\/em> with hakama<\/em> came to be treated as formal dress.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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The Edo Period, When Gorgeously Ornate Wafuku Blossomed<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Development of Diverse Weaving and Dyeing Techniques<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

With the advent of the Edo period, weaving and dyeing methods for applying a wide variety of patterns to the kosode<\/em> were developed, and gorgeously ornate wafuku<\/em> came to be seen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Changes were also observed in the very forms of wafuku<\/em>: in women\u2019s garments, making the obi<\/em> larger and the sleeves longer to give the clothing a luxurious look became common, and the furisode<\/em> was born out of these Edo-period trends.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Later, in the Meiji period, as silk production increased and the price of silk thread fell, various silk fabrics such as chirimen<\/em> came into being, and the variations of wafuku<\/em> became even richer. Furthermore, from the Meiji period onward, women\u2019s advance in society and the abolition of the class system progressed. The idea of women\u2019s \u201couting wear,\u201d which had not existed until then, emerged, and colors and patterns became more free.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Representative Types of Wafuku and Their Uses<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

In this chapter, we introduce the characteristics of representative types of wafuku<\/em> and their uses.
The type and use of wafuku<\/em> vary not only by the shape of the garment, but also by the kind of fabric used, as well as the colors and the placement of patterns.
Here, we will explain several representative kinds of wafuku<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Women\u2019s Formal Wear: \u201cKurotomesode\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This is a wafuku<\/em> made of black-dyed chirimen<\/em> fabric, worn as formal wear by married women. Five small family crests, called itsutsumon<\/em>, are dyed in on the back, the left and right chest, and both sleeves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Below the waist there is often an auspicious, sumptuous motif called eba-moyo<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

You mainly see it at weddings, worn by the relatives of the bride and groom and by the nakodo<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Dignified \u201cIrotomesode\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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This is a wafuku<\/em> dyed in a ground color other than black, worn as women\u2019s formal dress regardless of whether they are married or unmarried.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

While chirimen<\/em> is common for the fabric, chirimen<\/em> with woven ground patterns and rinzu<\/em> are also used. In general, rinzu<\/em> is thinner than chirimen<\/em>, has a sheen, and feels smooth to the touch, which helps bring out the refined colors of the irotomesode<\/em>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As with the kurotomesode<\/em>, family crests (mon<\/em>) are applied, though examples with three or one crest are also seen. The eba-moyo<\/em> pictorial pattern is placed below the waist as in the kurotomesode<\/em>, giving a dignified atmosphere.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Opulent \u201cHomongi\u201d<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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A type of women\u2019s formal wear, made with a wide range of fabrics.
Unlike the irotomesode<\/em>, its eba-moyo <\/em>pictorial pattern extends up onto the upper body\u2014shoulders and chest\u2014giving it an ornate impression.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In addition to fabrics such as chirimen<\/em> and rinzu<\/em>, there are hpmongi<\/em> made with durable tsumugi<\/em>. However, since tsumugi<\/em> is regarded as an everyday-wear fabric, it is not suitable for formal occasions\u2014so take care.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cFurisode\u201d familiar at coming-of-age ceremonies<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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It is a type of kimono worn primarily as formal wear by unmarried women.
Its most distinctive feature is its long sleeves, and because of their gorgeous appearance it is also worn for graduation ceremonies and coming-of-age ceremonies, as well as as bridal attire at weddings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By sleeve length, it is divided into kofurisode (short), chufurisode (medium), and ofurisode (long); the longer the sleeves, the higher the formality is said to be.
As for the placement of patterns, in addition to the traditional eba-moyo (seam-matching designs), various arrangements are seen: pieces that display komon (small repeat patterns), ones with altered pattern placement, and even solid-colored ones\u2014various types can be seen.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cKomon\u201d easy to wear<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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It is a type of kimono worn as everyday attire by women, and its name comes from the fine all-over patterns that have no up-or-down orientation.
Although it cannot be worn as formal dress, it is a popular kimono often seen at kimono rental shops and the like.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are various dyeing techniques, but among them \u201cKyo-komon,\u201d \u201cKaga-komon,\u201d and \u201cEdo-komon\u201d are representative, each with its own characteristics.
Kyo-komon and Kaga-komon each developed their dyeing techniques under the influence of Kyo-yuzen and Kaga-yuzen, and are characterized by vivid use of multiple colors.
By contrast, Edo-komon is most often dyed in a single color, and is distinguished by extremely fine patterns made with stencils (katagami). It developed from the patterns of the kamishimo<\/em> worn by daimyo families in the Edo period, and some pieces feature crests\u2014once the designated crests of each daimyo house\u2014rendered by resist dyeing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cTsumugi\u201c, known for durability<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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It is a type of kimono worn as everyday attire by women, made from a sturdy fabric woven with yarn spun from \u201cwaste cocoons\u201d that cannot be used to produce raw silk, the yarn being twisted and then woven.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It has a history of being cherished as durable everyday clothing\u2014some say it was worn across several generations\u2014and, because its texture does not look like silk from a distance, it was also known as a \u201cchic garment that lets you wear silk unobtrusively.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As it originated as workwear, it is considered unsuitable for formal occasions; however, because it is a fabric closely tied to people\u2019s lives, a variety of tsumugi textiles remain throughout Japan. Many are designated traditional crafts, such as Okitama Tsumugi from Yamagata Prefecture, Yuki Tsumugi from Ibaraki Prefecture, and Oshima Tsumugi from Tokyo. It\u2019s a fine choice to purchase as a \u201cstylish\u201d everyday garment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Men\u2019s formalwear: \u201cItsutsu-mon-tsuki\u201c<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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For men\u2019s formal kimono, the highest rank is a black-dyed garment with five family crests (mon<\/em>) rendered in resist, paired with striped hakama<\/em>.
The more crests, the higher the formality; five crests are worn by the groom, his father, and the go-between (nakodo<\/em>) at weddings, and by the host side at investiture ceremonies and banquets.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Three-crest and single-crest versions are semi-formal and may be worn when attending a friend\u2019s wedding. Even when dyed in a color other than black (a colored montsuki<\/em>), a garment with five crests can be worn as formal dress.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Unlike women\u2019s kimono, men\u2019s kimono does not differ greatly between unmarried and married wearers. Instead, finer distinctions depend on TPO (time, place, and occasion).
For everyday wear, the kinagashi<\/em> style\u2014without a haori<\/em> or hakama<\/em>\u2014is acceptable, but in general, wearing hakama<\/em> makes the outfit more formal.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cYukata\u201d for relaxation<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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It is a type of kimono that, taking the yukatabira<\/em> as its prototype, developed as relaxation wear when commoners in the Edo period wore it after bathing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today it is widely known as a fashionable summer item, and especially in women\u2019s yukata, many pieces feature brilliant colors and patterns.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Because it is worn in the summer season in the kinagashi<\/em> style (casually, without additional layers), the fabric is generally lightweight and somewhat coarsely woven.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cJinbei\u201d originally loungewear<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Like the yukata, it is a type of traditional Japanese clothing that was originally made as room wear and was not worn when going out. It is also said that the name comes from its shape resembling the jinbaori<\/em> worn by warlords in the Sengoku period.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Today it is also recognized as Japanese wear for men to put on when going out to festivals and the like, and as demand for jinbei has increased, patterns have diversified and it is in the process of establishing itself as attire for going out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u201cSamue\u201d easy to move in for everyday use<\/strong><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Samue<\/em> is a type of Japanese clothing that, thanks to its ease of wear, has become widespread as loungewear. Originally it referred to the clothes monks wore when doing their daily chores (samu<\/em>), and there was no fixed, specific form as there is today.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is unclear historically when it first appeared, but it is said to have been created after the Meiji period out of practical necessity. In recent years, items designed for going out have also been sold. It is sometimes confused with the jinbei<\/em>, but the samue<\/em> has longer sleeves and longer trouser legs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In closing<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Up to this point we have explained the types of wafuku<\/em> and differences in their uses. When it comes to wearing kimono, people tend to imagine that it is difficult, but that is really only in the case of formal dress. When you wear kimono as everyday clothing, there are no complicated rules.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

There are stories that commoners in the Edo period walked around town with their kimono worn in a relaxed, slightly disheveled way, and from the story that the sleeves of the furisode<\/em> grew longer to achieve a more glamorous look, one can sense that people in the past enjoyed wearing Japanese clothing freely and lightly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In recent years, lace kimonos have become popular even at rental kimono shops, and some makers have released wafuku<\/em> made of denim fabric. Across the industry there is a growing mood to let people enjoy fashion more freely.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

For those who feel, \u201cBut I don\u2019t know how to wear a kimono\u2026,\u201d why not make your kimono debut with a rental kimono first? Staff will carefully dress you in a kimono tailored to your preferences, so you can enjoy strolling around town with a feeling a touch different from the everyday!<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Masaki Iwamoto
Born in 1993 in Nishinomiya, Hyogo Prefecture. After graduating from the Department of Geography, Faculty of Letters at Nara University, he worked primarily in sales roles. In 2022, he moved to a travel company and has since worked as a tour planner and as a tour\/history writer.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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